Berlin 2018 – wissenschaftliches Programm

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KFM: Fachverband Kristalline Festkörper und deren Mikrostruktur

KFM 10: Spectroscopy and Microscopy I with X-rays and Ions

KFM 10.10: Vortrag

Dienstag, 13. März 2018, 13:00–13:20, EMH 225

micro-XRF analysis of color brilliance and dyeing techniques in ancient wool carpet fibers — •Andreas Späth¹, Markus Meyer¹, Thomas Huthwelker², Camelia N. Borca², Karl Meßlinger³, Manfred Bieber⁴, and Rainer H. Fink¹ — ¹1FAU Erlangen-Nuremberg, Physical Chemistry II, Erlangen, Germany — ²Paul Scherrer Institute, Swiss Light Source, Villigen, Switzerland — ³FAU Erlangen-Nürnberg, Physiology and Pathophysiology, Erlangen, Germany — ⁴Ex Oriente, Waldbrunn, Germany

The vivid and persisting colors of ancient oriental carpets are remarkably stable against any typical form of bleaching. Anthropologists have revived traditional procedures based on fermentation of the wool with G. candidum yeast prior to dyeing. This method results in a higher permeability of the fiber cuticle, but in ancient wool specimens the cuticles are often lost by abrasion and cannot be analyzed anymore. However, the common natural dyes (e.g., alizarin) require the use of a mordant (KAl(SO4)2 or FeSO4) to form a stable mordant-dye-coordination-complex within the keratin fiber. micro-XRF is an excellent tool to detect the distribution of the respective mordant-dye-complexes within the wool [1]. We found that fermentation results in an enhanced concentration of mordant in the inner cortex. Within our recent studies we employ micro-XRF to confirm the fermentation process in specimens from various centuries and cultures - including the oldest knotted carpet known (5th century B.C.) - and gain more insight into the historical spreading of this technique.

[1] M. Meyer et al., Scanning, 2017, 2017, 6346212.